Unforgettable Okavango Delta Safari: A Close Encounter with Botswana’s Wild Heart

For those who may have missed the beginning of our incredible journey, be sure to catch up on part one and part two of our honeymoon safari recap. This installment brings us to an eventful day, deep within the heart of the Okavango Delta, Botswana, where exhilarating wildlife sightings culminated in an utterly unforgettable experience that underscored the raw power and unpredictable beauty of Africa.

Our second full day at our secluded camp in the Okavango Delta dawned with a palpable sense of excitement. We had opted for an all-day game drive, a fantastic opportunity offered by our experienced guide, Aubrey. This extended excursion promised to take us much farther from our camp, venturing into a distinct, less-traveled region of the delta. The prospect of encountering an even wider array of Botswana’s magnificent wildlife filled us with anticipation. After a hearty breakfast, meticulously prepared by the camp staff, and with a packed lunch safely stowed for our journey, we set off into the golden savanna, ready for whatever the wild might reveal.

The morning started with a thrill, reminiscent of our previous fortunate days. Aubrey, with his keen eye and profound knowledge of the bush, quickly noticed fresh lion prints etched into the sandy track. Our hearts pounded with excitement. Barely fifteen minutes into our drive, as we emerged onto a vast, open plain, our eyes were drawn to a cluster of movement in the tall grasses. There, tucked away, were four absolutely adorable lion cubs. Their cautious glances in our direction spoke volumes; they had clearly been left alone, their mothers likely out on a hunting expedition. Their innocent vulnerability was captivating, a poignant reminder of the delicate balance of life in the wild. Aubrey, ever the expert, assured us that the mothers and the rest of the pride couldn’t be far off, a statement that only heightened our suspense.

True to his word, Aubrey’s tracking skills proved impeccable. After about twenty minutes of careful navigation, we located the entire pride: two mothers and three younger adults, all resting peacefully under the dappled shade of a large tree. So much for hunting, we mused, as they seemed content to enjoy a midday siesta! This remarkable sighting marked our fourteenth different lion encounter in less than two days. It was almost unbelievable, yet each experience felt just as special and awe-inspiring as the last. The sheer abundance of these magnificent predators in the Okavango Delta is truly astounding, making it a premier destination for a Botswana wildlife safari.

They certainly have a knack for looking cute and cuddly, don’t they? We joked that perhaps the mothers had simply wanted a brief respite, a quiet siesta away from the energetic demands of their cubs. After spending a respectful amount of time observing the pride, we continued our journey, venturing deeper into this pristine wilderness. It’s incredibly challenging to gauge distances accurately when traversing the winding, unmarked tracks of the Delta. Connor and I often found ourselves in areas that felt eerily familiar from previous days, yet completely unrecognizable. Our best guess was that we drove at least an hour, perhaps six or seven miles, away from our camp that day, pushing the boundaries of our usual safari routes.

Aubrey had mentioned that this particular area of the Okavango Delta was known for its giraffe population, an animal high on my personal wildlife bucket list. It wasn’t long before his prediction came true; we spotted our first majestic giraffe towering above the savanna. Looking back, giraffes quickly became one of my absolute favorite animals we encountered during the entire Botswana safari adventure. Their immense stature, intricate coat patterns, and surprisingly graceful movements, despite their lanky legs, are utterly captivating. While we never witnessed them performing the precarious act of drinking from the water, we did later that day see a few giraffes running across the plains – a sight that, due to their unique gait, appeared almost comically slow-motion, a true spectacle of African wildlife.

The landscape we were traversing that day was notably drier and characterized by denser vegetation compared to the floodplains closer to our camp. This difference in habitat proved advantageous for spotting various animal groups. We observed several larger herds of elephants, a stark contrast to the solitary bull elephants we had encountered on earlier days. These herds, with their complex social structures and impressive size, moved majestically through the bush, their presence a powerful reminder of the Okavango Delta’s untamed nature. Whether this area provided more abundant food sources or better cover for shelter and hiding, it was certainly a haven for these gentle giants.

We also had the pleasure of spotting our first sizable herds of zebras. Much like the baboons we had observed, the zebras proved to be among the most skittish animals we encountered on our game drives. Their striking black and white stripes make them instantly recognizable, yet their wariness was equally apparent. They would eye our vehicle intently, and the moment we drew too close, they would erupt into a flurry of movement, galloping away before stopping at a safer distance to resume their watchful gaze. It was a fascinating display of their survival instincts, a vital aspect of Botswana’s ecosystem.

Among the herds, we spotted several young zebras, including a particularly endearing scene of a clearly (and very!) pregnant mother accompanied by her weaning calf. It was a beautiful illustration of life continuing in the wild, a testament to the Okavango Delta’s role as a vital nursery for countless species. Each sighting brought new insights into the intricate lives of these animals, deepening our appreciation for the African wilderness.

At one particularly active watering hole, the diversity of the Okavango Delta’s ecosystem was on full display. We observed not only zebras and warthogs – the latter kneeling comically on their front two legs to feed from the ground – but also giraffes and wildebeest sharing the precious resource. Aubrey explained that such gatherings are often examples of symbiotic relationships in action. Different animal species travel together, leveraging each other’s unique strengths and compensating for weaknesses. Some possess exceptional eyesight, others superior hearing, and by pooling these senses, they collectively enhance their chances of survival. Baboons, for instance, are known for their sharp alarm calls, which we heard several times during our trip, serving as crucial warnings to other animals when predators like leopards and lions are in the vicinity.

By this point, it was probably around 11:00 AM, and we had already witnessed an incredible array of wildlife. Yet, the surprises continued. Not long after, we encountered our first – and only – male and female ostrich pair of the entire trip! Honestly, I had never even dared to hope we would see an ostrich during our Botswana safari, so it was a truly unexpected and delightful discovery. The sheer scale of these birds, the largest in the world, is truly impressive.

The male ostrich immediately began a clear diversionary tactic, walking purposefully in the opposite direction, attempting to draw our attention away from his mate. It was a textbook display of protective behavior, and we watched, fascinated by his deliberate movements.

As we soon realized, the female ostrich was diligently protecting her nest, which remained cleverly concealed from our view. Her unwavering resolve was remarkable; she allowed us to approach far closer than Aubrey had ever experienced. He explained that ostriches typically flee or abandon an area if approached too closely, yet this female stood her ground, a powerful testament to her maternal instincts. It was a privilege to witness such a rare and intimate moment in the vast Okavango Delta.

After this incredible ostrich sighting, we stopped for lunch. In a truly surreal touch, a neighboring sister camp had prepared a picnic table and chairs near a large watering hole, about fifteen feet away from our resting spot. It was an extraordinary experience: enjoying pasta salad and grilled chicken amidst the raw beauty of the African bush. Not far off, impalas and zebras grazed, and a mere hundred feet away, several immensely large crocodiles lounged, almost imperceptibly, in the sun. It was an almost unbelievable juxtaposition of civilized comfort and untamed wilderness, leaving us wondering, “Is this truly real life?” This unique lunch experience perfectly encapsulated the magic of an Okavango Delta safari.

As we finished our meal and prepared to depart, we observed a captivating spectacle: a pair of black herons. These clever birds were using their wings to create a living “umbrella” over the water, casting a patch of shade that lured small fish to the surface, making them easier prey. It was utterly amusing to watch their ingenious fishing technique, another small but fascinating detail of the abundant wildlife in the Okavango Delta.

By this time, it was around 1:30 in the afternoon, and we began our journey back towards camp, knowing it would be approximately a two-hour drive from our current location. As we traversed the familiar yet ever-changing landscape, we came across a small herd of elephants. A few of the adults were enjoying a mud bath about thirty feet away, and tucked within the thick brush, we spotted a tiny baby elephant. We had seen younger elephants earlier in the day, but this was our very first baby elephant of the trip – a truly heartwarming sight. The mother elephant, however, was keenly aware of our presence, sizing us up from a distance, cautiously evaluating whether to venture closer to the inviting mud hole with her vulnerable calf.

Our guide, Aubrey, made the decision to back away and reposition the vehicle on the other side of the brush, believing we might gain a better vantage point from there. At this critical juncture, we were off the main track, surrounded quite closely by small shrubs and trees, on very sandy ground. About thirty to thirty-five feet away, we could clearly see a few other elephants from the same herd. We drove a few feet further and then stopped, our vehicle now somewhat perpendicular to the elephants’ general direction. One particularly large elephant, likely the female matriarch of the herd, looked directly in our direction. Our eyes met hers. In an instant, without any warning, she charged us at full speed. The world seemed to slow down.

For a split second, a flicker of hope crossed my mind – perhaps our guide could quickly reverse the jeep and we could escape, or the roaring engine and exhaust fumes might deter her. But almost immediately, a cold certainty settled in my gut: this elephant was going to hit us. With complete honesty, I believed, in that horrifying moment, that we were going to die. Our safari jeep had no sides, and the charging elephant possessed formidable tusks – one was broken, but the other was dangerously large. Our vehicle was perfectly perpendicular to her trajectory; she was about to T-bone us. What followed next is a blur of terrifying seconds, an event that unfolded with brutal speed.

{Following the charge, Connor managed to capture a short video with a GoPro. Upon returning home, we made a chilling discovery: one of our memory cards had actually recorded the raw audio of the entire elephant charge, a haunting reminder of the incident.}

There was a deafening crunch, a jarring impact, and then the safari jeep flipped violently onto its side. To give you some context, our guide and Connor were seated on the right side of the vehicle – the side of impact – while I was on the far left. Miraculously, our vehicle was equipped with a robust roll bar, a critical safety feature that undoubtedly prevented us from flipping over entirely and likely saved our lives. In an astonishing stroke of luck, Connor and I somehow managed to slowly stand up as the elephant was charging and, by some inexplicable force, landed firmly on our two feet when the vehicle finally came to rest on its side. I genuinely have no idea how we accomplished this, but we were, against all odds, physically unharmed. Even more remarkably, my camera, which had been loose around my neck, remained completely fine. In fact, neither Connor nor I sustained a single scratch. Our guide, Aubrey, was also miraculously unharmed, despite the elephant’s head having rammed directly into his passenger door. His immediate priority was to ask Connor to look over the side of the vehicle and confirm that all the elephants had vanished – sometimes, these powerful animals are known to linger or charge multiple times. Thankfully, the herd was nowhere to be seen.

Again, by some unbelievable fortune, all three of us – myself, Connor, and Aubrey – were physically okay. However, Cindy, the guest who had been sharing all our game drives with us, was not. The moment the jeep flipped, she cried out, “My arm is crushed.” We later learned the full extent of her injuries: a broken scapula, a broken radius, and six cracked ribs. She remained in her passenger seat, clearly in excruciating pain and barely able to move. Aubrey immediately attempted to contact our camp via radio, but to our growing horror, we quickly discovered it wasn’t working. In hindsight, I still grapple with what was more terrifying: the immediate shock of the elephant charge and our vehicle flipping, or the chilling realization that we were miles from camp, deep in the middle of nowhere, with no means of communication. It was approximately 2:30 in the afternoon, and the only thought consuming my mind was, “The sun will set in three hours, and we have no radio signal.” The gravity of our situation in the remote Okavango Delta was truly overwhelming.

With incredible resolve, all three of us managed to carefully carry Cindy away from the damaged vehicle. It was incredibly fortunate that Connor has medical training, and Cindy herself was a nurse; both remained remarkably calm throughout the ordeal. Their composure was a lifeline, as I likely would have been a complete mess otherwise. Our first priority shifted to attempting to flip the jeep back upright – a monumental task in itself. We only had a high-lift jack and a cargo strap, and these safari vehicles are enormous and exceptionally heavy. It took us over forty-five grueling minutes and numerous attempts to finally right the vehicle. The terrifying part is the stark reality that we were only able to accomplish this because all three of us were uninjured. Had any of us been severely hurt, I have no idea how we would have managed. At this critical moment, our radio inexplicably sputtered back to life, though we dared not start the vehicle due to a leaking radiator. Aubrey, however, was able to contact someone on a supply run, who was miraculously only a fifteen-minute drive away. Hope, albeit fragile, began to return to our harrowing Botswana safari.

At this point, it was clear that Cindy required urgent medical attention, most likely surgery for her arm, and we needed to get her back to camp as swiftly as possible. The return journey, though short in distance, felt interminable. It took us almost two hours to reach the camp, met along the way by several anxious camp staff members and the manager. Cindy endured immense pain, exacerbated by every bump and jolt on the rough track. We had to stop several times, once for Connor to ingeniously fashion a rudimentary splint for her arm using sticks. Along the way, we passed several more elephants, some disconcertingly close to our vehicle. It was at this point that the emotional dam broke for me, and I finally succumbed to tears, overwhelmed by the day’s events and the raw intensity of the Okavango Delta.

Upon our arrival back at camp, the immediate focus was on Cindy. A medevac helicopter swiftly arrived to transport her to Maun, Botswana, for initial medical care. Later that same night, she was flown via private jet to Johannesburg, South Africa, to undergo necessary surgery. Meanwhile, Connor and I returned to our tent to process the day’s trauma. And there, no more than twenty feet away, a large bull elephant stood calmly outside our tent. The irony was not lost on us – honestly, at this point, I had no desire whatsoever to see another elephant. For the first time, I felt an overwhelming gratitude for the electric fencing surrounding our tent, a small but significant barrier between us and the unpredictable wild. Our camp generously offered to arrange our transportation home the following day, and warned us that our next camp was situated in an area with an even larger elephant population. Despite the profound shock and lingering fear, we decided to stay, skipping the morning game drive but resolutely continuing our journey to the next camp as originally planned. The Okavango Delta had tested us, but its captivating beauty and the sheer wonder of its wildlife ultimately beckoned us forward, forever changed by our unforgettable Botswana adventure.