Unforgettable African Honeymoon: Chobe Safari & Victoria Falls Majestic Views (Part 4)

For those following our incredible journey, you can catch up on the earlier chapters of our unforgettable honeymoon adventure by revisiting part one, part two, and part three of our detailed Botswana safari recap. We’ve had a mix of exhilarating wildlife encounters and moments that truly tested our nerves.

I come bearing both good news and, regrettably, a small bit of bad news. The good news first: I’m delighted to report that we navigated the remainder of our African honeymoon without any further close encounters or attacks from wild animals. A huge sigh of relief for us, and hopefully for you, dear reader! We survived our Botswana safari and continued our journey largely unscathed.

Now for the bad news: despite my most earnest attempts, I simply couldn’t condense the remaining eight days of our trip into a single blog post. Our African adventure was just too rich with experiences to be confined to one more entry. So, I kindly ask for your patience just a little longer. This will be the final installment dedicated to our Botswana and Victoria Falls journey, I promise! After this, we can delve into other exciting topics, like the details of our wedding, life in Chicago, and, of course, delicious food. Though perhaps not in that precise order. Sound like a plan?

As you might well imagine, our Botswana safari honeymoon took a significant turn after the rather intense elephant charge incident that nearly flipped our vehicle. While I’d love to tell you that I recovered instantly and everything was perfectly wonderful from that moment on, that simply wouldn’t be truthful. The experience, though ultimately harmless, left a lasting imprint on my psyche.

The rest of our honeymoon was, undeniably, incredible. However, that unforgettable elephant encounter significantly colored our perception and enjoyment of the remaining time in Botswana. As I shared in a previous post, the manager of our first camp had forewarned us that our next destination, a camp situated near the renowned Chobe National Park, was known for its exceptionally large elephant population. This information, combined with our recent experience, created a palpable sense of apprehension.

It wasn’t that I genuinely believed the exact same terrifying scenario would repeat itself. The elephant that charged us likely felt we were encroaching on its territory, or perhaps it was simply acting on instinct to protect its herd, possibly including young calves. The true motivation remains unknown. Elephants possess truly incredible memories, and as one of our knowledgeable guides explained, Botswana shares a border with Namibia, a country unfortunately plagued by high rates of elephant poaching. Poachers frequently cross from Namibia into Botswana, which boasts one of Africa’s largest elephant populations. This context provides a chilling insight into why some elephants might be more wary or aggressive. Despite these challenging experiences and insights, my admiration for elephants remains profound. They were, in fact, one of the primary animals I had most eagerly anticipated seeing during our African safari. My love for these magnificent creatures endures.

However, at that particular juncture, the thought of being up close and personal with them again was, frankly, far from appealing.

The vibrant Lilac-Breasted Roller, a true jewel of the Botswana sky.

In the immediate aftermath of the incident, we briefly considered the drastic step of rearranging our entire itinerary and traveling to an entirely different destination. But ultimately, after much deliberation, we decided against it. We had meticulously planned this comprehensive African safari trip over a year in advance, and a part of us yearned to experience every aspect we had envisioned, including the rich wildlife of Chobe National Park. We wanted to make the most of our Botswana honeymoon.

In hindsight, perhaps sticking to our original plan wasn’t the absolute wisest decision given my heightened anxiety. Nonetheless, with a deep breath and a shared resolve, we woke up the following morning and decided to continue our Botswana adventure as initially planned. Our flight to the next camp wasn’t scheduled until the afternoon, so we opted to forgo the morning game drive – a typically essential safari activity – in favor of a more relaxing boat ride through the tranquil channels of the surrounding Okavango Delta. While this particular excursion offered fewer sightings of large land mammals, it proved to be a wonderfully welcome change of pace. We were treated to a mesmerizing array of diverse bird species, unique water plants, and a fresh perspective on the breathtaking delta landscape. It offered a calming counterpoint to the previous day’s intensity.

Known colloquially as the “Jesus Bird,” the Jacana appears to walk on water as it gracefully steps across lily pads.

The avian life in Botswana was truly remarkable, with an explosion of vibrant colors that captivated us. Fortunately, many of these stunning birds frequently visited our first camp, often scavenging for crumbs that fell from our outdoor dining area. This provided ample opportunities to photograph them, capturing their intricate beauty. Observing these unexpected feathered highlights became one of the most delightful and memorable aspects of our time in Botswana, offering a gentle solace after the earlier scare.

A striking Yellow Weaver, meticulously building its nest.

The distinctive Black-Collared Barbet, adding a splash of color to the trees.

Our Safari Air flight eventually departed from our Okavango Delta camp just after three o’clock that afternoon. This particular plane was a small six-seater, but believe it or not, by this point in our Botswana safari, I had become surprisingly accustomed to these charming bush planes! We arrived at the airstrip near our second camp in just under an hour. This camp was strategically located near Chobe National Park, known for its incredible wildlife, and was every bit as secluded and wild as our first camp. One of the camp guides greeted us, and we embarked on the hour-long drive to the camp, an experience that often felt like a fast-paced game drive in itself, navigating through dense bushland.

From this moment forward, Connor and I humorously referred to ourselves as the ‘damaged’ safari people. It became standard practice to inform our guides about our recent elephant experience. This wasn’t merely a storytelling exercise; it was a crucial heads-up to explain that if we encountered elephants again, our preference was to keep moving and maintain a respectful distance, avoiding any situations that might bring us too close. To their credit, every single guide we encountered was incredibly understanding, gracious, and genuinely shocked to hear our harrowing tale!

About five or ten minutes into our initial drive to the Chobe camp, it became immediately apparent that this area boasted extremely dense vegetation, severely limiting visibility. While not inherently a problem for the wildlife, it meant that our line of sight rarely extended beyond 15-20 feet at any given moment. In practical terms, one could easily round a blind corner and find themselves just feet away from any animal, including Botswana’s abundant elephants. The terrain was incredibly sandy, with narrow tracks tightly bordered by small trees and thick brush, making it impossible to drive more than a few miles per hour. Within just 30 minutes of our drive, we had already spotted over 20 elephants. None were more than 50 feet away, and at this point, my initial apprehension quickly escalated into a full-blown nervous wreck. My legs started shaking uncontrollably, and every muscle in my body tensed up. Every worst-case scenario imaginable began racing through my mind.

At one particularly anxious moment, we rounded a bend, and approximately 75 feet ahead, we could clearly see at least three or four elephants standing directly in the middle of the road. They were positioned just before another turn, obscuring anything beyond that point. The sun was beginning its descent, painting the sky with hues of orange and purple, yet we were still a good 20 minutes from camp. The thought of driving through this dense, elephant-filled area at night was terrifying; I barely wanted to drive through it during the day! But the alternative – driving straight into the middle of what could be a massive herd of elephants – was equally unappealing.

As the elephants slowly began to move off the road, our perceptive guide (who had clearly picked up on my palpable terror) turned to me and said, “Laura. I want you to do something. I want you to turn your head and look the other way.” As Connor often reminds me, he specifically directed me to look at several Cape buffalo grazing to our immediate right. It wasn’t exactly the confidence-boosting encouragement I had secretly hoped for, but I obliged.

A herd of powerful Cape Buffalo, often called “Black Death” for their formidable nature.

I followed his instructions, and thankfully, as we cautiously proceeded around the bend, there were no more elephants blocking our path. We continued our slow drive, encountering a few more elephants along the way, and finally, much to my immense relief, arrived at our Chobe camp. We quickly familiarized ourselves with the layout of the camp (unlike our previous one, this camp lacked any electric pole fencing, adding to the wildness), our comfortable room, and arrived just in time to savor the breathtaking sunset painting the sky over the river directly in front of the camp, all before dinner. The experience was made even more authentic by the distant grunting of hippos echoing through the twilight, a constant reminder of our deep immersion in the African wilderness.

The next morning, our second full day in Chobe, we begrudgingly rose at half past six for breakfast outside near a crackling fire. After the previous day’s anxiety-inducing drive and a full immersion into the densely vegetated landscape, I truly, profoundly, had no desire to embark on another game drive. Connor was supportive of my decision to skip it, but our persuasive guide managed to convince us (we’re clearly easily swayed, it seems!) that there would be significantly fewer elephants active during the cooler morning hours. Since we were the only guests in the safari vehicle, he also assured us that we could turn back at any point if we felt even the slightest discomfort. Reassured by his flexibility and knowledge, we agreed.

We set out on a morning game drive, which proved to be wonderfully rewarding and far less stressful. We spotted graceful giraffes stretching their long necks to feed, numerous mischievous baboons, our very first family of mongooses scurrying through the undergrowth, and a plethora of beautiful birds, including the most impossibly tiny African barred owlets. It was a serene and fascinating experience, a welcome contrast to the previous day’s tension.

An inquisitive African Mongoose, ever alert in its surroundings.

A tiny yet majestic African Barred Owlet, perfectly camouflaged.

During this game drive, we also had the unique opportunity to witness traditional mokoro fishing along the river banks – these elegant boats, carved from tree trunks, glide silently through the water, a timeless sight. Crucially for my peace of mind, elephant sightings were almost non-existent during this morning excursion, and I began to feel considerably more at ease in the jeep. Despite this improved comfort, we collectively decided to spend that afternoon relaxing and simply enjoying the amenities and tranquility of the camp. We indulged in a refreshing nap, only to wake up to the delightful sight of several baboons playfully frolicking just outside our raised tent, a charming reminder of how deeply embedded we were in nature.

That night, I experienced a truly restless sleep – a first during our entire Botswana honeymoon. As we settled into bed, we could distinctly hear the heavy, rhythmic grazing of several hippos just outside our tents, their massive forms moving unseen in the darkness. At one point in the night, I vividly remember being jolted awake by the unmistakable roar of a lion, seemingly not far off in the distance. We later learned that a lion had indeed walked through the camp that very night, its paw prints clearly visible to the guides in the morning light. Oh, and I’m fairly certain there was at least one elephant passing by at some point or another as well. Suffice to say, I’m honestly surprised I managed to get any sleep at all with such an orchestra of wild sounds surrounding us!

The next morning, marking our second full day at the Chobe camp, we chose to embark on another boat ride. This decision proved to be a fantastic choice, as we saw an even greater diversity of birds during this trip. From the water, we could clearly observe where the papyrus and water reeds had been pushed down, evident signs of elephants and hippos grazing and forging paths through the river. This aerial perspective offered a unique insight into their daily routines.

I was feeling significantly better and more relaxed at this point, but my reluctance to go on any afternoon game drives persisted. Elephants, especially in Chobe National Park, have a well-known tendency to congregate near the river during the afternoon to cool down and drink, which meant the chances of encountering a large number of them were exceedingly high. We both felt a twinge of guilt that we weren’t fully maximizing every aspect of our Chobe safari experience, but we also didn’t want to risk any further unsettling encounters. At this stage, I still felt a constant underlying sense of alert whenever we were out on game drives, perpetually scanning for any sign of wildlife that might approach too closely. It wasn’t the most relaxing or enjoyable feeling for a honeymoon.

As we were preparing to unwind and lounge a bit that afternoon, one of the incredibly attentive staff members approached us with a surprising announcement: they had arranged a complimentary 30-minute scenic helicopter ride for the two of us! We were absolutely taken aback and totally caught off guard. To this day, we’re not entirely sure if this incredibly generous gesture was simply a special treat for our honeymoon, or if they felt a genuine sense of remorse following our harrowing elephant encounter and wanted to do something extra nice for us. Either way, it was an incredibly exciting and deeply appreciated surprise! In general, I’ve never traveled anywhere in the world where I’ve felt as genuinely welcomed, cared for, and looked after as I did at both of our safari camps in Botswana. The level of hospitality was truly unparalleled and left a lasting impression.

We drove about 10 minutes from our camp, arriving at a slightly open clearing where a very tiny, yet robust, helicopter sat awaiting us. Our pilot, who happened to hail from New Zealand, casually asked us if we wanted to remove all of the helicopter doors for maximum, unobstructed viewing. Connor, ever the adventurer, immediately nodded his enthusiastic approval! I, on the other hand, was a little more… hesitant, but ultimately on board with the thrilling idea nonetheless. We even brought our wonderful guide, Esse, along with us, and then, with a whirring of blades, we lifted off! This was both Connor’s and my very first helicopter ride, and for the initial 10 minutes or so, I found myself gripping the bar in front of me for dear life, feeling too nervous to even comfortably pull out my camera to take pictures.

A part of me couldn’t help but feel that we had simply swapped one potentially dangerous activity (a game drive with ground-level elephant encounters) for an equally thrilling, if not more so, activity (a door-less helicopter ride over wild terrain). However, as we leveled off and I began to feel more comfortable and secure, the initial fear transformed into pure exhilaration. It quickly became an incredibly fun and awe-inspiring experience! Crucially, we were able to see tons of wildlife. I was more than happy to observe elephants – all the elephants! – from a safe and reassuring distance of between one and two hundred feet up. From this unique aerial perspective, I could fully appreciate their majestic presence without any anxiety. Even more special, we were able to spot several hippos out of the water, basking on riverbanks, and numerous elephants cooling off and even swimming in the river, sights rarely seen from the ground. It was an unparalleled view of the Chobe National Park’s diverse ecosystem.

After the absolutely incredible helicopter ride, we drove back to camp, looking forward to relaxing and enjoying the traditional afternoon tea and snacks (all the Botswana safari camps offered delightful tea and snacks in the afternoons!). About five minutes later, our guide Esse approached us, his eyes gleaming with excitement. “One of the safari vehicles that just left spotted a leopard coming out of the water,” he announced. “It’s only a five-minute drive away! Do you want to go see it?”

Neither of us could possibly pass up the chance to see another leopard, especially after our memorable encounter in the Okavango Delta. We instantly jumped back into the safari vehicle, filled with renewed anticipation, and sped off in the direction of the other safari vehicles, eager to catch a glimpse of this elusive big cat.

We were incredibly fortunate to pull up just in time to witness the majestic leopard gracefully walking away from the water’s edge. It probably walked within five feet of our vehicle – a moment that, I admit, sent a renewed jolt of nervousness through me, despite the helicopter’s confidence boost – before disappearing silently into the dense brush. This particular leopard was a male, and noticeably larger and more muscular than the other leopard we had seen earlier in the Okavango Delta. It was an absolutely perfect, thrilling way to conclude our time at the Chobe camp! Although we were genuinely sad to bid farewell to the exceptional staff, both of us were eagerly anticipating our next destination: Victoria Falls, and the prospect of a short, much-needed break from the intense game drives and constant wildlife vigilance the following day. Our Botswana safari had been an adventure, but a change of pace was welcome.

Our excellent guide, Esse, and myself, cherishing the last moments in Chobe.

The next morning, we woke up early, geared up for a long but exciting day of traveling to Victoria Falls. Our fantastic guide, Esse, took us on the hour-long drive back to the airstrip, where we boarded another Safari Air flight, this time an hour-long journey to Kasane Airport in Botswana. Upon arrival, we were met by our transfer vehicle, which would drive us through the Zimbabwe border to reach our final destination: Victoria Falls. It felt incredibly strange, yet also somewhat comforting, to be on a paved landing strip again, let alone driving on paved roads after weeks of navigating dusty, sandy bush tracks throughout the rest of our time on safari in Botswana. This marked a noticeable shift in our African honeymoon experience.

After efficiently navigating customs and purchasing a joint Zimbabwe-Zambia visa (Victoria Falls famously straddles the border between these two countries, and we planned to explore both sides during the next two days), we embarked on a scenic 45-minute drive to the magnificent Victoria Falls Hotel. This iconic Edwardian-era hotel is absolutely gorgeous, steeped in history and colonial charm. It was originally constructed in the early 1900s to provide luxurious accommodations for the workers who were building the impressive Victoria Falls Bridge. The hotel exudes a timeless, elegant ambiance, and the distant views of the billowing spray of Victoria Falls – famously known as “The Smoke That Thunders” – were utterly breathtaking and promised the natural wonder that awaited us.

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It definitely felt incredibly strange – yet wonderfully welcome, especially after our recent wildlife experiences – to find ourselves in a structured building complete with reliable electricity, blissful air-conditioning, and a choice of restaurants. It was a delightful change in routine from our rustic safari camps. Even here, however, we still had charming reminders of the wild: several monkeys, mischievous baboons, and even adorable warthogs were seen playfully running across the hotel’s expansive property. Speaking of warthogs, am I the only one who finds them utterly adorable with their comical trot and tufted tails?

We indulged in a leisurely lunch in the outdoor dining area, enjoying panoramic views of the distant falls. Connor even savored an adventurous ostrich bolognese pasta! After our meal, we prepared for our much-anticipated sunset cruise on the Zambezi River that evening. It promised to be a truly romantic and scenic experience.

We took about a 20-minute drive to the boat jetty, where we boarded one of many vessels offering popular sunset cruises on the Zambezi River. Our cruise essentially navigated the river above Victoria Falls, though, of course, we maintained a very safe and respectful distance from the powerful cascade itself. The weather was absolutely perfect, adding to the magical ambiance. We were incredibly lucky to witness a stunning rainbow created by the incessant mist rising from the falls – a phenomenon so regular in the wet season that the spot is famously known as “Rainbow Point.” As the sun dipped below the horizon, we were treated to one of the most breathtaking sunsets we had ever seen, painting the sky with an unforgettable palette of colors over the majestic African landscape.

To our delight, we even managed to spot a lone elephant elegantly taking a drink from the tranquil banks of the Zambezi River, a beautiful moment of wild nature unfolding before our eyes as the day ended.

The next morning, we indulged in a delicious breakfast at the elegant Victoria Falls Hotel before embarking on private walking tours of both sides of Victoria Falls – first the Zimbabwe side, then crossing over to the Zambia side. It’s important to note that Victoria Falls holds the impressive title of the widest waterfall in the entire world, surpassing even Niagara Falls in width by over 1500 feet! (For context, the honor of the tallest waterfall in the world goes to Angel Falls, plummeting a breathtaking 3,212 feet!). Our travel agency had thoughtfully arranged for a knowledgeable local guide to lead us through the area, offering invaluable insights. Both sides of the falls offered distinctly different perspectives and experiences (crossing into Zambia required another customs stop, but our multi-country visa made the process remarkably smooth!). Regardless of the side, the sheer views were absolutely astounding, and the raw power of the water was nothing short of incredible. Due to past issues with elephants occasionally wandering into tourist areas, the Zimbabwe side of the falls is surrounded by a large protective fence, but we still observed plenty of playful baboons and agile vervet monkeys within the park grounds. Be warned: you will get absolutely soaked by the immense spray and mist at several points while walking along the falls, so I opted not to bring my primary camera. However, our trusty GoPro, with its waterproof case, proved to be the perfect companion for capturing this magnificent natural wonder.

That afternoon brought another thrilling aerial adventure: a 12-minute scenic helicopter ride over Victoria Falls, often dubbed the “Flight of Angels”! While we had arranged this experience in advance, we never anticipated it would be our second helicopter ride of the trip, a truly unexpected bonus on our African honeymoon. Unlike our previous door-less helicopter adventure in Botswana, this aircraft was much larger, comfortably seating six people, and came complete with doors – a comforting detail for some! This was our first opportunity to witness the awe-inspiring majesty of Victoria Falls from directly above, and it undoubtedly provided an entirely new and unparalleled perspective of the entire area. We circled around the falls four times, allowing everyone ample opportunity to capture stunning photographs and truly absorb the grandeur. It felt like the perfect amount of time to appreciate its scale. If any of you ever have the incredible chance to travel to Victoria Falls, I wholeheartedly recommend combining walking tours of both the Zimbabwe and Zambia sides with a short helicopter ride. This combination allows you to experience the falls from every conceivable angle, from the ground-shaking roar at its base to its magnificent expanse from the sky.

All in all, our two days spent at Victoria Falls felt like the perfect duration. It offered a wonderful and much-needed respite from the intense game drives following the elephant incident, allowing us to reset and appreciate a different kind of natural wonder. This refreshing change of pace also reignited our excitement for the final three days of our African safari, which would take us to South Africa. Stay tuned for my very last post and update, which will include more captivating pictures and an intriguing video of our (completely optional, and yes, slightly crazy) elephant ride! We’ve officially embraced our adventurous side!