Positano’s Culinary Gems and Coastal Trails: A Farewell to the Amalfi Coast

As our unforgettable journey along the breathtaking Amalfi Coast drew to a close, it’s impossible to recount our final day without first revisiting a culinary experience that truly set the standard for our entire trip: our inaugural dinner in the enchanting town of Positano. It was a meal that etched itself into our memories, a symphony of flavors that still makes my mouth water at the mere thought.

A Culinary Revelation: Dining at La Taverna del Leone

Thanks to a wealth of recommendations from friends and fellow travelers, particularly Carly, we set our sights on La Taverna del Leone. This wasn’t just another restaurant; it was a destination in itself. Located a few miles outside the bustling heart of Positano, its “off the beaten path” location meant a short drive was necessary, but every turn of the winding coastal road only built anticipation. From the moment we arrived, we knew we were in for something special. While we had enjoyed delicious food throughout our time on the coast, La Taverna del Leone truly elevated the dining experience, surpassing all expectations and leaving every other meal in its delicious wake. The quality, freshness, and artistry of every dish we sampled were simply phenomenal, with their pastas and gnocchi reaching a level of culinary perfection that bordered on the divine.

An Unforgettable First Course: Carbonara and Artichoke Gnocchi

For my first course, I chose a dish that promised decadence: a white-truffle and prosciutto carbonara, elegantly crowned with a scattering of crushed pistachios. The combination of rich, earthy truffle, savory prosciutto, and the unexpected crunch of pistachios created a harmonious blend of textures and flavors that was utterly captivating. My partner, Connor, opted for the artichoke gnocchi, a choice that proved equally inspired. The dishes arrived, radiating warmth and aromatic allure, truly a feast for the senses even before the first bite.

Describing these dishes as “mouth-watering” feels like an understatement. They were creamy, rich, and so profoundly flavorful that they were utterly “lick-the-bowl-worthy.” It’s a shame that the accompanying iPhone pictures do them absolutely no justice – their true brilliance could only be experienced firsthand. The carbonara, in particular, was so exceptionally memorable that we both found ourselves ordering it again the very next night, a testament to its irresistible charm. I’ve since been absolutely committed to recreating this masterpiece in my own kitchen as soon as humanly possible, hoping to capture even a fraction of its original magic.

The gnocchi, on the other hand, was a marvel of texture and taste. Incredibly fluffy and light, each delicate dumpling practically melted in the mouth, perfectly complemented by generous amounts of tender, purple artichoke pieces. It was a dish that celebrated simplicity and high-quality ingredients, proving that true culinary excellence often lies in the mastery of classic flavors.

Main Courses and a Surprising Dessert

Following such exquisite starters, our main courses maintained the high standard. I savored a perfectly cooked, lightly breaded local fish, its delicate flavors enhanced by a simple yet refreshing carrot and fennel salad. Connor, a fan of more adventurous seafood, opted for grilled calamari served with a velvety potato puree. The calamari was tender and flavorful, and as he often says, “Tentacles for the win!” It was another demonstration of the kitchen’s ability to transform fresh, local ingredients into exceptional dishes.

To conclude our magnificent meal, we shared an amazing buffalo-milk ricotta cheesecake. Normally, cheesecakes aren’t at the top of my personal dessert hierarchy, but this one was a revelation. It single-handedly demonstrated how truly exquisite a cheesecake can be when crafted with precision and the finest ingredients. Silky smooth in texture and surprisingly light, it offered a delicate sweetness that perfectly balanced the richness of the ricotta. It was an unforgettable end to an absolutely perfect meal.

Savoring Our Last Day in Positano: Breakfast, Hiking, and Local Flavors

Now that I’ve thoroughly made myself hungry and nostalgic revisiting those delicious memories and photos, let’s fast forward to the events of our actual last day on the enchanting Amalfi Coast. After an incredibly restful night’s sleep – likely filled with dreams of that glorious spaghetti carbonara – we woke up energized and eager to make the most of every precious moment remaining in Positano. Our day began with a truly lovely breakfast, thoughtfully included at our charming hotel, Villa Franca.

Waking Up to Paradise: Breakfast at Villa Franca

It’s genuinely hard to imagine a breakfast view that could surpass the one we enjoyed from our hotel. Overlooking the vibrant, terraced houses of Positano cascading down to the shimmering Mediterranean, it was a postcard come to life. The breakfast spread itself was impressive, offering a large variety of options to cater to every taste. There was creamy yogurt, savory salami and an assortment of local cheeses, freshly baked breads, and an irresistible array of pastries. Among them, a delicious chocolate cake (which I certainly didn’t mind indulging in!), vibrant fresh clementines, and flaky croissants stood out. However, there was one minor regret: we mistakenly assumed that cappuccinos would be an extra charge and, consequently, limited ourselves. We later discovered they were included, and we could have ordered as many as our hearts desired. A true cappuccino fail that still brings a slight pang of longing!

Adventures Above Positano: Our Scenic Hike

After a satisfying breakfast, we set out to explore. We decided to dedicate the first part of our day to hiking along some of the scenic paths situated high above Positano. This offered a fantastic opportunity to work off some of those delicious calories and gain a different perspective of the iconic town and coastline.

We both found the trail map we were given quite amusing. It seemed to consist of little more than a collection of squiggly lines that bore little resemblance to the actual, often challenging, trail ahead. Despite the navigational quirks, the journey itself was its own reward. We unfortunately had to stop just short of the very top due to signs indicating potential rock slides, prioritizing safety over summiting. However, we believe we got pretty close, and the views along the way were more than compensating.

With every step higher, the panoramic vistas of Positano and the sparkling Tyrrhenian Sea grew more spectacular. The vibrant hues of the buildings clinging to the cliffs, the deep azure of the water, and the distant outline of the Lattari Mountains created a truly breathtaking tableau. It felt as though each new turn revealed an even more stunning masterpiece of nature and human ingenuity.

An Unexpected Companion: Our Mountain Goat Puppy

After hiking for well over an hour, thoroughly enjoying the fresh air and incredible scenery, we decided it was time to head back down to town. Along our descent, we had a delightful and rather comical encounter: an adorable little puppy seemingly appeared out of nowhere! It was quite surprising, as we hadn’t seen another soul during our entire hike. Despite wearing a collar, he seemed to be on a solo adventure, or perhaps had wandered a bit too far from home. He looked absolutely thrilled with life, bounding around with boundless energy. We “adopted” him for the remainder of our walk, encouraging him to follow us back towards town, assuming that was the direction of his home. This little guy was convinced he was a mountain goat, continuously bounding right off the narrow path and scrambling over rocks, often in alarming proximity to steep drops. It was both horrifying and hilarious to watch his fearless antics!

A Taste of Local Life: Balcony Lunch with a View

Once we made it back to town (and our adventurous canine companion decided his path diverged from ours, probably off on another exciting escapade), we decided to forego finding a traditional restaurant or café for lunch. Instead, we embraced a more local approach: a delightful picnic sourced from some small grocery stores in town. We planned to enjoy our findings on our hotel balcony, maximizing our private scenic view. This turned out to be one of the best decisions of the day.

Our impromptu feast was a celebration of fresh, Italian produce: vibrant cherry tomatoes, crusty bread, exquisitely fresh mozzarella, aromatic pesto, sweet strawberries, savory salami, and delicate bresaola (air-dried and salted beef). The incredible part? This entire bounty of high-quality, delicious food cost us only twelve dollars! It was an unbelievable value for such an authentic and satisfying meal.

This simple yet exquisite meal, enjoyed amidst the stunning backdrop of Positano, was a true highlight and a reminder of the unparalleled freshness of Italian ingredients.

Savoring the Last Moments: Positano Beach

After our delightful balcony lunch, we decided to brave the famous Positano stairs once (or rather, twice) more and head back down to the beach one last time. This descent, and the subsequent climb, is a workout in itself but entirely worth the effort for the vibrant atmosphere and beauty of Spiaggia Grande.

Walking through the quaint, colorful streets, bustling with life and lined with artisan shops, was a sensory delight. The air was filled with the scents of lemon, sea salt, and fresh pastries. Reaching the beach, we took a moment to simply absorb the vibrant scene: the colorful umbrellas, the gentle lapping of the waves, and the iconic view of Positano rising majestically from the sea. It was a perfect final embrace of this magical coastal town.

Farewell to the Amalfi Coast: Cherished Memories and a Reluctant Departure

The following morning, with heavy hearts and a suitcase full of incredible memories, we reluctantly packed up our belongings. It was time to say goodbye to Positano and the unparalleled beauty of the Amalfi Coast. We got into our car and prepared to brave the exhilarating, sometimes daunting, Italian roadways one last time for our journey back to Naples. The winding coastal roads, with their breathtaking drops and blind turns, were as challenging as they were stunning, a fitting final adventure. Leaving felt like parting with a dream, a vibrant tapestry of azure seas, lemon-scented air, and flavors that lingered long after the last bite.

Our final moments in Positano were bittersweet, but the memories of its stunning landscapes, the warmth of its people, and especially its extraordinary culinary delights, will forever remain etched in our hearts. The Amalfi Coast isn’t just a destination; it’s an experience that captivates the soul and beckons you to return. Until next time, Positano!