Discover the Luberon: Your Ultimate Provence Travel Guide to Enchanting Villages, Exquisite Cuisine, and Unforgettable Stays

Planning a trip to Provence, France, especially the picturesque Luberon region, has never been easier with this comprehensive travel guide. We’ve curated our top recommendations on must-visit destinations, delightful accommodation options, and the best places to savor authentic Provençal cuisine, ensuring your journey is nothing short of magical.

It’s taken a while to compile this detailed Provence France travel guide for you, but as the French gracefully say, c’est la vie! Some experiences are worth taking the time to truly capture and share.

To provide a bit of context, my partner Connor and I embarked on a wonderful vacation to France last May. We dedicated the initial five days of our adventure to immersing ourselves in the serene beauty of Provence, culminating our trip with three days of culinary indulgence in Paris. If your travels might take you to the French capital, be sure to explore my guide on where to eat in Paris for some delicious insights.

While both Connor and I had previously visited France, this particular journey marked our inaugural exploration of the South of France, and more specifically, the captivating Luberon region of Provence. We found flying into Marseilles airport incredibly convenient, as it’s just a scenic hour’s drive from the heart of the Luberon.

Encapsulating such profound travel experiences within a few paragraphs is always a challenge, hence the delay in delivering this guide. However, what truly stands out is how deeply we loved our time in Provence. Wandering through the numerous charming hilltop villages scattered across this region, you can’t help but feel as though you’ve been transported to a simpler, more timeless era. Every cobblestone street and ancient stone wall whispers stories of centuries past, creating an atmosphere that is uniquely enchanting.

The Luberon is celebrated worldwide for its breathtaking landscape, characterized by rolling valleys, fragrant lavender fields (in season), world-class wineries, and an unparalleled Provençal cuisine. It’s also renowned for its small, perfectly preserved villages that appear to have been untouched by time for hundreds of years. The region’s authentic charm and rich history are palpable in every stone and vine.

It is incredibly picturesque – so much so that it often feels like a waking dream. I can easily understand why countless visitors fall head over heels in love with this particular corner of the world. The serene beauty, coupled with the slow pace of life, creates an intoxicating allure.

Fortunately, most of the enchanting towns within the Luberon region, especially the most famous and those highlighted in this guide, are conveniently located within a short, scenic drive of one another. This proximity makes exploring multiple villages in a single day both feasible and enjoyable.

Planning Your Luberon Adventure: Essential Tips for an Unforgettable Trip

Whether you envision a leisurely, slow-paced escape or a more dynamic, jam-packed itinerary, the Luberon is incredibly accessible and perfectly suited for exploration. Regardless of your chosen travel style, I wholeheartedly advise renting a car for your trip to this area. A car provides unparalleled freedom and flexibility, allowing you to discover hidden gems and easily navigate between the charming villages. The roads are generally safe, well-signed, and getting lost is almost an impossibility, making driving a pleasure.

We opted for a balanced approach during our visit, blending slower days dedicated to deep immersion in a single village with busier days where we explored two or three towns. While you might be able to fit even more into a single day, our goal was a relaxed and enjoyable experience, truly savoring each moment. This approach allowed us to fully appreciate the unique character of each destination without feeling rushed.

Given that we only had four full days in Provence, we made the conscious decision to forego visits to more distant sites like Avignon and Pont du Gard, as well as other famous attractions closer to the coast. This timeframe still allowed us to experience a significant portion of the Luberon’s charm. However, if your schedule permits, I would highly recommend allocating at least five to six full days to truly explore the region in depth and perhaps venture further afield.

Practical Travel Tips for Provence

Summer marks the high season for tourism in Provence, largely due to the world-famous lavender fields bursting into vibrant bloom. Our visit, however, took place during the late spring, a delightful shoulder season. This timing allowed us to enjoy the villages when they were a bit quieter and more authentically local, an experience I greatly preferred. The absence of peak crowds offered a more intimate connection with the region.

We were incredibly fortunate to experience cool, crisp, and sun-filled days throughout our entire stay, which made for perfect exploring weather. It’s worth noting, though, that off-season weather can be a bit more unpredictable. Conversely, summers in Provence can become very hot, with temperatures soaring, so definitely factor this into your planning when deciding the best time for your visit. Additionally, be aware of the Mistral wind, a strong, cold wind that can sometimes blow through the region, especially in spring and autumn, adding a unique character to the weather.

Please understand that this travel guide is not designed to be an exhaustive compendium of all things Provence. I highly recommend conducting your own additional research on the region and, crucially, allowing ample time in your itinerary for spontaneous exploration. One of the greatest joys of traveling in the Luberon is the unexpected discovery. Don’t hesitate to visit that charming small village you spot in the distance that isn’t highlighted in any guidebook! Embrace the opportunity to go off the beaten path.

We did this a handful of times during our trip and were consistently rewarded. One of our most memorable detours led us to a breathtakingly quaint village that we had entirely to ourselves, a truly magical experience.

Exploring Luberon Markets: If you, like us, have a passion for visiting vibrant local and farmer’s markets, then you must consult this excellent guide on Luberon markets. Nearly every village in the area proudly hosts a market day once a week, offering a wonderful opportunity to sample exquisite local foods and specialties, find unique artisan crafts, and immerse yourself among the friendly locals. For some of the largest and most diverse markets in the region, be sure to visit the towns of Coustellet and Apt, where you can truly experience the Provençal way of life.

Our Favorite Must-Visit Destinations in the Luberon

It’s important to acknowledge that the Luberon boasts countless other beautiful towns and areas worthy of exploration that are not covered in detail within this guide. However, I’ve carefully selected and included our personal must-visit destinations below to help inspire and provide a solid starting point for your next unforgettable trip to Provence.

It’s worth mentioning that we were incredibly fortunate to travel with Connor’s parents, who have visited Provence several times before. Their invaluable knowledge, personal recommendations, and past experiences significantly enriched our journey and helped us maximize our relatively short time in this exquisite region.

Ménerbes

While you certainly have the flexibility to hop from town to town, we strategically chose the enchanting hilltop village of Ménerbes as our central home base for the entirety of our stay. This proved to be an excellent decision. Although Ménerbes is famous and well-known for its beauty, it maintains a slightly less popular and bustling atmosphere compared to some of its more crowded neighbors, such as Roussillon or Gordes, allowing for a more authentic experience.

Ménerbes is not only stunning but also conveniently equipped with several small, welcoming restaurants, a local grocer for daily essentials, charming shops, one or two delightful bakeries, and various other conveniences that make it perfectly suitable for a prolonged stay. Furthermore, the surrounding landscape is dotted with countless wineries, many just a five or ten-minute drive down the road, offering fantastic opportunities for wine tasting and vineyard tours.

Since we secured an Airbnb located right in the very center of Ménerbes (an experience I highly recommend if you can find such a gem), we had the luxury of stepping out our door each morning to grab a freshly brewed coffee and a warm, buttery croissant. This allowed us to fully embrace and enjoy the village life like true locals, soaking in the daily rhythm of Provençal living. The village’s hilly, winding cobblestone streets are incredibly charming and picturesque, and the panoramic views of the verdant valley below are simply breathtaking, changing with the light throughout the day.

As is typical for most of these historic villages, the streets of Ménerbes are narrow and often operate as one-way for vehicle traffic. While challenging, there are some limited public parking spaces available at the bottom of the village. My strong recommendation, particularly if you’re visiting during the bustling high season, is to arrive in these villages early in the day. This strategy significantly increases your chances of securing a convenient parking spot close to the village center, saving you time and effort.

Where to Eat in Ménerbes: Culinary Delights in a Hilltop Village

• Bistrot Le 5: As Ménerbes’ largest restaurant, Bistrot Le 5 boasts an exquisite outdoor dining space that truly comes alive during the warmer months. The panoramic views from its terrace are, quite frankly, worth a visit in themselves. We savored an early dinner here on our first night, and the experience, from the ambiance to the perfectly prepared Provençal dishes, was absolutely delightful. Their seasonal menu highlights fresh, local ingredients.
• Les Saveurs Gourmandes: This fantastic, cozy restaurant, proudly featured on the prestigious Michelin Bib Gourmand list, was conveniently located just across the street from our Airbnb. Les Saveurs Gourmandes offers an attractively priced, traditional four-course Provençal pre-fixe menu, alongside an à la carte selection. We thoroughly enjoyed a memorable meal here, which concluded with a truly sublime lavender crème brûlée – a perfect taste of the region.
• Du Cote de Chez Charles: For a superb casual, sit-down lunch experience, look no further than Du Cote de Chez Charles. They are renowned for their Provençal-style pizzas, which feature thin, perfectly crisp flatbreads generously topped with fresh arugula, exquisite charcuterie, and other local delicacies. Their wonderful fresh main course salads are also highly recommended. We absolutely adored this spot for its relaxed atmosphere and delicious, fresh fare.
• Chez Auzet: Tucked away towards the top of Ménerbes, Chez Auzet is a super cute bakery and casual café. It’s the perfect spot to grab freshly baked pastries, savory quiches, and other delightful treats. With its inviting outdoor tables, it provides a charming setting for a morning coffee or a light afternoon snack, allowing you to soak in the village ambiance.

Where to Stay in Ménerbes: Finding Your Perfect Provençal Retreat

• Maison O (Airbnb): Due to the exceptionally small size of these ancient villages, finding rental accommodations directly within the village centers can be quite challenging. Most Airbnbs or traditional home rentals in Provence are typically located within a short, scenic drive of a village. However, we absolutely cherished the idea of being able to simply walk out our door, grab breakfast, and fully immerse ourselves in the local Ménerbes life. We discovered this absolutely gorgeous property on Airbnb, Maison O, and our stay was nothing short of spectacular. It was remarkably well-priced for its generous size, prime central location, and exceptional amenities – most notably, a stunning outdoor patio boasting incredible panoramic views of the Luberon valley. The interior was exquisitely decorated, offering extreme comfort and a cozy, inviting atmosphere. The kitchen was also incredibly well-outfitted, which allowed us the pleasure of enjoying leisurely breakfasts at home (often featuring fresh berries and other delightful items from the local grocer) and even preparing a homemade dinner using the finest local produce and specialties gathered from the farmer’s market in Coustellet.
• If you prefer the amenities and services of hotels, most of the charming villages featured in this guide do offer several excellent options, ranging from boutique hotels to luxurious bastides. However, given the popularity of the region, especially during the bustling peak months, it is highly advisable to book your preferred accommodation well in advance to secure your ideal Provençal retreat.

Oppède Le Vieux

Just a convenient 10-minute drive from Ménerbes, you’ll discover Oppède Le Vieux, the captivating ruins of a mountainous town that dates back to the 12th century, majestically overlooking modern Oppède. This historic site holds a poignant past, having served as a refuge for artists fleeing the Gestapo and Nazi persecution during World War II, a testament to its enduring spirit.

While a significant portion of the older section is currently undergoing restoration or remains closed to the public for safety, visitors can still embark on a rewarding hike to the very top. Here, you’ll be treated to tantalizing glimpses of the old castle and its accompanying chapel, both of which are steadily being brought back to their former glory, offering a unique window into medieval Provençal life and architectural heritage.

Where to Eat near Oppède Le Vieux:

• Le Petit Cafe: Although we didn’t have the opportunity to dine here during our trip, Le Petit Cafe comes highly recommended. This beautiful restaurant is strategically situated just before the entrance to the ruins, making it an ideal spot for a meal before or after your exploration. It offers a charming selection of indoor seating, complemented by a spacious, inviting outdoor patio. From here, guests can enjoy a breathtaking view of the hilltop ruins, which are particularly spectacular when illuminated at night, creating an unforgettable dining ambiance.

Lacoste

The tiny, steeply winding cobblestone streets of Lacoste were among my absolute favorites throughout our entire trip to Provence. This village is positively stunning, so much so that it almost defies belief, feeling like a scene plucked directly from a postcard. Its undeniable beauty and unique character leave a lasting impression on every visitor.

Lacoste largely remains a tranquil residential village, strategically positioned just across from the neighboring, considerably larger town of Bonnieux. A must-do activity is to walk the steep, captivating streets all the way to the summit, where you will be rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. From this vantage point, you can also catch a glimpse of the famous Château de Lacoste, a historic landmark now owned by the renowned fashion designer Pierre Cardin, which adds a touch of modern glamour to its ancient origins.

While Lacoste’s setting is undoubtedly one of the most stunning in the entire region, it’s worth noting that it is a remarkably tiny village. Consequently, it doesn’t offer nearly as many amenities, such as multiple restaurants or shops, as nearby Ménerbes or Bonnieux, being home to just one bar and one restaurant. Keep this in mind if you’re considering using it as your primary home base for exploring the area. That being said, its intimate charm and unparalleled beauty captivated me completely! The quiet solitude and authentic atmosphere are truly special.

Should you choose to stay in this delightful town, rest assured that there are numerous excellent dining options available in the easily accessible neighboring town of Bonnieux. Additionally, for all your grocery needs, a large supermarket is conveniently located in Coustellet, just a short 15-minute drive away, ensuring you have everything required for a comfortable stay.

Where to Grab a Drink in Lacoste:

• Cafe de France: Make a point to stop at Lacoste’s iconic Cafe de France. Here, you can unwind with a freshly brewed coffee, a refreshing beer, or a glass of fine local wine. Enjoy the lovely, serene views from its inviting outdoor dining area, a perfect spot to watch the world go by in this charming village.

Bonnieux

Bonnieux stands out as another truly magnificent town in the Luberon, absolutely warranting a visit! Its slightly larger size, compared to some of the other villages, makes it a superb and practical home base from which to explore the surrounding area. Bonnieux offers a welcoming array of local hotels, diverse restaurants, charming shops, and essential amenities, ensuring a comfortable and engaging stay.

While in this beautiful area, you absolutely must make a stop at the Pont Julien, a remarkably preserved Roman stone arch bridge that dates back to 3 BC. This engineering marvel is just a picturesque ten-minute drive outside of Bonnieux. Incredibly, this bridge served continuous traffic for nearly two millennia until it was finally closed to car traffic (yes, cars were allowed on it for an astonishingly long time!) in 2005. Historically, it formed a crucial part of the Via Domitia, an essential Roman road that connected Italy to the far-reaching Roman territories in France. To this day, pedestrians are still welcome to walk across the bridge, offering a unique opportunity to literally walk through history.

We were so glad we had the chance to visit Pont Julien, not only for its inherent historical value but also because it provided a fascinating glimpse into what the much grander Pont du Gard, located outside Avignon, must be like, hinting at the immense scale of Roman engineering.

Where to Eat in Bonnieux: Gourmet Experiences in a Scenic Setting

• La Bergerie: Perched majestically at the top of Bonnieux, La Bergerie offers a more casual yet equally exquisite dining experience compared to its Michelin-starred counterpart. Both restaurants are part of the opulent Domaine de Capelongue luxury hotel. The setting of La Bergerie, with its stunning grounds and impeccable design, is absolutely breathtaking, creating an atmosphere of refined elegance. The food is, without question, excellent, featuring fresh, seasonal Provençal ingredients prepared with artistry. We highly recommend this spot for a memorable meal.
• La Bastide de Capelongue (2 Michelin Stars): While we didn’t personally dine here during our trip, if you are seeking an truly exceptional, fine-dining experience in the Luberon, La Bastide de Capelongue is an absolute must-consider. Helmed by a celebrated chef and boasting two prestigious Michelin Stars, this restaurant promises an unparalleled culinary journey that showcases the pinnacle of Provençal gastronomy.
• L’Arome: Another fantastic and highly-rated restaurant option in the Bonnieux area is L’Arome. It consistently receives rave reviews for its delicious cuisine, welcoming ambiance, and excellent service, making it a reliable choice for a superb meal in the village.

Gordes

I must confess, we didn’t conduct an exhaustive amount of research before our trip, partly because we were fortunate enough to be accompanied by Connor’s parents, who possess an intimate familiarity with this exquisite region! However, Gordes was unequivocally at the very top of my personal must-visit list, a destination I had dreamed of seeing.

While every village included in this guide is beautiful for its own unique reasons, those initial glimpses of Gordes are truly some of the most jaw-dropping and unforgettable. The dramatic setting of this town, majestically perched on a hillside, is absolutely incredible. In many ways, it evokes a feeling reminiscent of a French (though obviously landlocked) version of Positano on Italy’s Amalfi Coast, with its terraced buildings and stunning panoramic views. Gordes boasts a lovely main square, which serves as a vibrant hub filled with charming local shops, inviting cafes, and intricate alleys just waiting to be explored.

That being said, Gordes is undeniably one of the most popular and sought-after destinations in the Luberon. To truly appreciate its beauty and avoid the largest crowds, I highly recommend visiting early in the day. Be aware that parking can also be very limited, especially during peak hours, so an early start is key. You might also consider parking at one of the dedicated car parks outside the village and walking in to avoid congestion.

I would suggest dedicating at least a half-day, or ideally close to a full day, to exploring this captivating village. Wander its ancient streets on foot, soak in the architectural details, and then settle in for a beautiful meal at one of the many local restaurants, savoring both the exquisite cuisine and the magnificent surrounding views that Gordes so famously offers. Don’t forget to visit the Château de Gordes and the Saint Firmin Palace cellars for a taste of its rich history.

Roussillon

Roussillon is undeniably another exquisite town in the Luberon region that is absolutely worth a visit. What truly sets Roussillon apart are its utterly stunning colors, creating a visual spectacle that is wonderfully distinct from all the other villages in the Luberon. This vibrancy is what makes it a truly unique and memorable destination.

This remarkable village is strategically situated within one of the largest ochre deposits in the world, a geological feature that profoundly shapes its identity. Roussillon is renowned for its rich and brightly colored red, yellow, and pink buildings, which are traditionally required to be painted using local ochre pigments. These vibrant structures are beautifully set against the dramatic backdrop of the nearby ochre cliffs, creating a breathtaking palette of natural hues.

Be sure to explore the fascinating ochre cliffs by taking a walk along the designated pathways, and then lose yourself exploring the charming local streets. The photographic opportunities here are genuinely endless, with every turn offering a new, vibrant scene perfect for capturing. The play of light on the ochre-infused buildings and cliffs creates a continually changing masterpiece.

While we thoroughly enjoyed our visit here, it is important to note that Roussillon is definitively one of the most popular destinations for tour buses and tourists in the region. Consequently, it felt the busiest of all the towns we visited. For this reason, I would personally not recommend using it as a primary home base, but rather as a fantastic day trip destination where you can immerse yourself in its unique chromatic splendor.

Joucas

This enchanting hillside town, Joucas, which surprisingly isn’t mentioned in many guidebooks, was a truly delightful discovery made purely by chance during our explorations. It perfectly illustrates the joy of spontaneous travel. We were able to leisurely walk the entire town in a mere 30 minutes, immersing ourselves in its quiet, authentic streets without encountering another tourist in sight. This peaceful experience offered a stark contrast to some of the busier villages.

Joucas is a prime example of why I wholeheartedly recommend venturing off the beaten path and allowing yourself the luxury of exploring at leisure. These unexpected detours often lead to the most memorable and personal travel moments, revealing the true, untouched essence of Provence.

Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt

While this particular village tends to be notably quieter, with most businesses observing a midday closure, Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt emerged as one of our most unexpected and cherished favorites from the entire trip. Its serene ambiance and untouched beauty left a profound impression.

A visit here would be incomplete without taking the time to hike and wander amongst the impressive ruins of the chateau, which majestically overlooks the entire village. These ruins were, without exaggeration, some of the most beautiful and evocative we encountered during our entire Provençal adventure. The invigorating hike to the summit also rewards you with absolutely incredible panoramic views of the verdant valley below, stretching out to the horizon in a breathtaking display of nature’s splendor.

If there’s one singular takeaway from this comprehensive Provence France travel guide, I sincerely hope it’s that you feel inspired to visit and add the enchanting region of Provence to your personal travel bucket list. We absolutely adored our time there; it stands out as easily one of the most special and memorable places I’ve ever had the incredible opportunity to travel to. The timeless charm, delicious cuisine, and stunning landscapes left an indelible mark on our hearts, and we genuinely cannot wait to return someday soon, preferably sooner rather than later, to relive its magic!

For more detailed travel insights and inspiration, you can explore my entire collection of travel guides here, including my comprehensive guide on where to eat in Paris, designed to help you plan your next culinary adventure in the French capital.

Should you have any questions at all about planning your trip to Provence or any other aspect of this guide, please feel free to leave them in the comments section below. I’ll do my very best to answer them thoroughly or point you in the right direction. Happy travels!