Exploring the Amalfi Coast: A Journey Through Ravello and Amalfi
After dedicating a full, delightful day to exploring the vibrant streets and charming corners of Sorrento, our Italian adventure continued along the famed Amalfi Coast. Our next destinations were the picturesque towns of Amalfi and Ravello, each promising unique experiences and breathtaking vistas. Opting for convenience and a truly immersive experience, we decided to forgo driving and instead utilized the local SITA bus service (derived from buS ITAlia). This decision was a strategic one; the Amalfi Coast road is legendary for its extremely windy, cliff-hugging routes, which can be challenging to navigate. By taking the bus, both of us could fully enjoy the spectacular coastal scenery without the stress of driving or the arduous task of finding parking in these bustling, ancient towns. It allowed us to simply sit back, relax, and soak in every moment of the dramatic journey along the azure Tyrrhenian Sea.
The SITA Bus Ride: Navigating the Legendary Coastal Roads
Boarding the SITA bus was an experience in itself, offering a glimpse into local Italian culture. Nothing quite broadcasts confidence like seeing multiple pictures of Jesus and the Blessed Virgin Mary adorning the bus driver’s dashboard, a common sight that adds a touch of devout reassurance. Ultimately, the drive along the coast wasn’t nearly as terrifying as its reputation might suggest; these seasoned bus drivers navigate these roads countless times daily with remarkable skill and precision. Their mastery of the serpentine turns and narrow passages instilled a sense of calm, allowing us to truly appreciate the engineering marvel of the road itself and the stunning natural beauty it unveiled at every bend.
Despite the drivers’ undeniable expertise, I must confess to closing my eyes a few times, particularly during the more dizzying stretches where the bus seemed to hug the cliff edge with almost audacious closeness. We strategically placed Connor in the window seat on the cliff-side, a decision that offered me a small measure of comfort, perhaps ironically, given my past willingness to go skydiving. The breathtaking drops and the sheer scale of the coastline can certainly be an exhilarating, if slightly nerve-wracking, experience. Nevertheless, the continuous parade of dramatic sea views, quaint coastal towns, and lush Mediterranean vegetation made the journey an unforgettable part of our Amalfi Coast exploration, transforming a simple bus ride into a scenic tour.
Embracing the Coastal Weather: A Unique Perspective
This particular day presented us with the most overcast weather of our entire trip. While many visitors hope for clear, sunny skies to capture the iconic vibrancy of the Amalfi Coast, the cloudy and grey conditions actually lent a different, unexpectedly beautiful charm to the landscape. The low-hanging clouds often enveloped the mountaintops, creating a dramatic, almost mystical atmosphere that enhanced the rugged beauty of the region. This diffused light softened the edges of the cliffs and highlighted the rich textures of the ancient towns, offering a unique photographic opportunity and a distinct appreciation for the coast’s more contemplative side. It was a reminder that the Amalfi Coast’s allure isn’t solely dependent on brilliant sunshine; its natural splendor shines through in all its various moods.
Ravello: The Enchanting Hilltop Sanctuary
The SITA bus ride from Sorrento to Amalfi took approximately an hour. From Amalfi, we embarked on another short, scenic bus journey that wound its way up the hills to Ravello, a truly special town perched high above the bustling coastline. Founded in the 9th century, Ravello boasts a rich and storied history. Once a thriving medieval mercantile power, its population exceeded 30,000 at its peak. Today, it is a serene village home to only a few thousand residents, offering a tranquil escape from the more frenetic pace of the lower coastal towns. Ravello is also internationally celebrated as a hub for arts and culture, famously hosting the prestigious Wagner Arts Music Festival every year, drawing classical music lovers and cultural enthusiasts from around the globe to its idyllic setting.
The Heart of Ravello: Piazza Duomo
The main square of Ravello, the Piazza Duomo, immediately captivated us and quickly became one of my absolute favorite spots in the town. It embodies the quintessential charm of an Italian piazza, with its elegant architecture, lively cafes, and the imposing presence of the Duomo di Ravello. The square serves as the vibrant social and cultural heart of the village, a perfect place to observe local life unfold. I found myself wishing for similar grand architectural spaces and pedestrian-focused urban planning back in the States. The intricate details of the building facades, the quaint balconies adorned with colourful flowers, and the inviting outdoor seating areas of the local eateries collectively created an atmosphere of timeless beauty and relaxed sophistication, inviting visitors to linger and soak in the rich history surrounding them.
Artistry in Clay: Ravello’s Exquisite Hand-Painted Pottery
As we continued our leisurely stroll through Ravello, exploring its many hidden gems, we chanced upon a pottery shop that truly stood out from the others we had encountered along the Amalfi Coast. While the entire region is celebrated for its beautiful ceramics, this particular establishment offered by far the most impressive collection. Every single item, from dinnerware to decorative pieces, was meticulously hand-painted with incredibly intricate designs and vibrant, rich colours. The level of detail and artistry showcased the deep-rooted tradition of ceramic craftsmanship in the area, elevating each piece to a work of art. The allure of these unique, handmade treasures was undeniable, and we, of course, found ourselves purchasing a few pieces to bring a tangible memory of Ravello’s artistic spirit back home with us, each one a testament to Italian craftsmanship.
Villa Cimbrone: A Garden Paradise with Panoramic Vistas
Having perhaps spent a little too much time (and money) admiring the exquisite pottery, our next main destination beckoned: the magnificent Villa Cimbrone. This historical estate, dating back to 1905, is famous for its absolutely stunning gardens and its breathtaking panoramic views that stretch endlessly across the Amalfi Coast and the vast Tyrrhenian Sea. The villa itself has been splendidly converted into a luxurious hotel, but its glorious gardens remain open to the public, drawing countless visitors who come to experience its beauty. Many connoisseurs consider it to be home to the most beautiful garden in all of Italy, and it’s easy to understand why. As we wandered through the meticulously maintained grounds, adorned with ancient statues, vibrant flora, and fragrant citrus groves, every path led to a new, more spectacular vista, each one more awe-inspiring than the last. The sheer scale and thoughtful design of the gardens, combined with the dramatic natural backdrop, create an atmosphere of unparalleled beauty and tranquility.
The crown jewel of Villa Cimbrone is undoubtedly the iconic Terrace of Infinity (Terrazzo dell’Infinito). This dramatic panoramic belvedere, famously lined with classical marble busts, offers an unobstructed view that truly lives up to its name, making you feel as if you’re standing on the very edge of the world, gazing out into an infinite expanse of sea and sky. The blend of historical grandeur, artistic landscaping, and the raw, untamed beauty of the natural surroundings creates an atmosphere of profound serenity and wonder. It’s a place that has, for generations, inspired poets, artists, and romantics, and its timeless appeal is palpable. It truly is pretty stunning, wouldn’t you agree? The classical statues standing sentinel against the dramatic backdrop of the sea and sky, the ancient pathways, and the sheer cliffs dropping into the shimmering azure below combine to create a theatrical, almost otherworldly setting that feels utterly unique.
Every corner of the villa’s expansive gardens presented a new photographic opportunity, a fresh vista to absorb. It wasn’t merely a garden visit; it was an immersive journey through history, art, and natural splendor, leaving an indelible mark on our memories.
Interestingly, after spending a significant amount of time immersed in the grand scale of Villa Cimbrone’s clifftop setting, I noticed a curious shift in my perception. My initial trepidation about standing near sheer drops had exponentially increased throughout the day. What began as a slight apprehension on the SITA bus now felt surprisingly normal as I gazed out from the Terrace of Infinity, hundreds of feet above the sea. The constant exposure to such dramatic, yet captivating, beauty had made me remarkably accustomed to the expansive horizons and dizzying heights. It was a fascinating personal evolution, transforming a subtle fear into a profound sense of awe and a newfound comfort with the raw grandeur of the Amalfi Coast’s natural wonders.
A Taste of Authentic Italy: Lunch at Cumpa Cosimo
By this point in the late afternoon, our extensive explorations had certainly worked up a considerable appetite, so we decided to head back into the bustling center of Ravello in search of a well-deserved lunch. We opted for a spot highly recommended in our guidebook, a renowned local eatery called Cumpa Cosimo. This establishment is more than just a restaurant; it’s a true Ravello institution, celebrated not only for its delicious, authentic regional cuisine but also, perhaps even more so, for its legendary owner. Barely ten minutes after we were seated, the owner herself emerged from the kitchen to greet us, a whirlwind of classic Italian hospitality and charisma. She was everything one might affectionately expect: wonderfully bossy, incredibly generous, and delightfully opinionated, traits that only added to her irresistible charm and made for an unforgettable dining experience.
Her vibrant personality was further accentuated by her memorable attire: a cheerful pink sweater, a perfectly frilly apron, and a delightfully huge purple scrunchie, which only added to her unique appeal. She passionately guided us through the menu, offering heartfelt recommendations and ensuring we experienced the very best of the local specialties. The food itself was simply divine – hearty, richly flavored, and clearly prepared with generations of culinary wisdom and a profound love for traditional Italian cooking. Each dish felt like a comforting embrace, from the fresh, homemade pasta to the delectable local vegetables. The meal concluded in the most charming and memorable fashion: she personally presented us with the bill, retrieved directly from her old-fashioned change purse. This wonderfully informal gesture perfectly encapsulated the warm, familial atmosphere of Cumpa Cosimo, leaving us with not just full bellies but also hearts overflowing with authentic Italian culture and hospitality.
Auditorium Niemeyer and a Damp Return
With our appetites thoroughly satisfied and the afternoon gently fading, we began to make our way toward the bus stop for the return journey down to Amalfi. However, before fully departing Ravello, we made a brief but important detour to admire the striking Auditorium Oscar Niemeyer. This contemporary concert hall, situated just before the town’s main entrance, is a true architectural marvel designed by the celebrated Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer. Its fluid, sweeping white lines and futuristic aesthetic provide a fascinating contrast to Ravello’s ancient charm, yet its organic form somehow harmonises with the dramatic coastal landscape, mirroring the natural curves of the cliffs. The building’s unique design, which vaguely reminded me of the iconic Sydney Opera House, was truly impressive, even though we were unable to go inside. It stands as a testament to Ravello’s forward-thinking cultural ambitions, gracefully blending heritage with modern artistic expression.
Our journey back down the hill to Amalfi, unfortunately, proved to be less straightforward than our earlier ascent. For various reasons beyond our understanding, we found ourselves waiting for the SITA bus for an unexpected and rather lengthy hour and a half. As if to compound our growing impatience, the skies decided to open up, and it began to rain steadily, adding a damp chill to our wait. Our original itinerary had included spending a leisurely hour or so exploring Amalfi town, perhaps wandering through its historic maritime streets and enjoying its charming piazza before heading back to Sorrento for the evening.
A Glimpse of Amalfi’s Grandeur
However, after the prolonged wait in the increasingly persistent rain and a growing disillusionment with the somewhat erratic nature of Italian bus schedules, we made the pragmatic decision to alter our plans. Instead of a thorough exploration, we opted for a quick, albeit impactful, five-minute walk through Amalfi, just enough time to catch a magnificent glimpse of the town’s undisputed architectural jewel: the stunning Duomo di Sant’Andrea. Its grand, imposing staircase and intricately detailed facade, even in the dim, rainy afternoon light, left an indelible impression of its historical and artistic significance. We then swiftly made our way to catch the next available bus directly back to Sorrento, deciding to prioritize comfort and punctuality over further damp exploration. Despite the truncated visit to Amalfi itself, the sheer beauty of the Duomo alone was enough to hint at the town’s profound historical and architectural richness, leaving us with a strong desire to return and explore it more fully another time. Our day trip, though marked by a few unexpected turns and the whims of local transport, was a vibrant tapestry of culture, breathtaking landscapes, and unforgettable Italian moments.